Kent Gardener: Now is the time to plant a new lawn or fix an old one

By Maggie L. Moor-Orth
Posted Aug 17, 2010 @ 11:19 AM
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I get a dozen phone calls this time of the year on lawn renovating, therefore I thought I would reprint this article.

In Delaware, the ideal time to establish a new lawn is from Aug. 20 to Sept. 30. This date could be extended a short time if we have a mild fall.
Before planting a new lawn, clear all debris and stones. Use an herbicide such as Roundup or Kleenup to clear all existing plant material. This should be done approximately two weeks prior to your seeding date. Old leaves, weeds, dead grass or thatch should be removed or mixed into the soil thoroughly.

Adequate seedbed preparation is the most important factor in obtaining a successful lawn seeding. Just prior to seeding, level lawn and broadcast lime and fertilizer to the area. To determine the amount of lime and/or fertilizer needed, have a soil test done prior to renovation.

Rototill limestone and fertilizer into soil to a depth of 4 inches. When the soil surface is dry and easily worked, hand-rake to smooth the surface and remove any remaining trash and stones.

The seed used should be mixed thoroughly in a pail or tub, and then divided into several equal quantities. Seed each section of your lawn separately in at least two different directions. This will ensure complete and uniform coverage of seeds to the entire lawn area.

Immediately after seeding, gently brush the surface with a grass rake to increase contact between seed and soil and to improve seed germination. Be careful not to rake too roughly; this may redistribute the seed or bury the seed too deeply.

Mulch the raked seedbed with a light covering of straw or peat moss to maintain soil moisture and to protect the seed from being washed or blown away. Water this thoroughly, and thereafter, water each morning and early evening. If this is not possible, then irrigate the seedbed at least once a day. Always use a fine spray or mist-type nozzle to minimize disturbing the soil or washing the seed away.

It is important to provide the new lawn with adequate moisture until the seed germinates and seedlings have a good start. Remember that more frequent watering will be required in hot or windy conditions.

Stringing the area with brightly colored flags will warn neighbors and family members, but not necessarily pets, to stay off.

If you do not want to establish a new lawn, there are several ways to improve an existing one:

I get a dozen phone calls this time of the year on lawn renovating, therefore I thought I would reprint this article.

In Delaware, the ideal time to establish a new lawn is from Aug. 20 to Sept. 30. This date could be extended a short time if we have a mild fall.
Before planting a new lawn, clear all debris and stones. Use an herbicide such as Roundup or Kleenup to clear all existing plant material. This should be done approximately two weeks prior to your seeding date. Old leaves, weeds, dead grass or thatch should be removed or mixed into the soil thoroughly.

Adequate seedbed preparation is the most important factor in obtaining a successful lawn seeding. Just prior to seeding, level lawn and broadcast lime and fertilizer to the area. To determine the amount of lime and/or fertilizer needed, have a soil test done prior to renovation.

Rototill limestone and fertilizer into soil to a depth of 4 inches. When the soil surface is dry and easily worked, hand-rake to smooth the surface and remove any remaining trash and stones.

The seed used should be mixed thoroughly in a pail or tub, and then divided into several equal quantities. Seed each section of your lawn separately in at least two different directions. This will ensure complete and uniform coverage of seeds to the entire lawn area.

Immediately after seeding, gently brush the surface with a grass rake to increase contact between seed and soil and to improve seed germination. Be careful not to rake too roughly; this may redistribute the seed or bury the seed too deeply.

Mulch the raked seedbed with a light covering of straw or peat moss to maintain soil moisture and to protect the seed from being washed or blown away. Water this thoroughly, and thereafter, water each morning and early evening. If this is not possible, then irrigate the seedbed at least once a day. Always use a fine spray or mist-type nozzle to minimize disturbing the soil or washing the seed away.

It is important to provide the new lawn with adequate moisture until the seed germinates and seedlings have a good start. Remember that more frequent watering will be required in hot or windy conditions.

Stringing the area with brightly colored flags will warn neighbors and family members, but not necessarily pets, to stay off.

If you do not want to establish a new lawn, there are several ways to improve an existing one:

De-thatch or remove a heavy thatch buildup to improve soil and increase soil moisture. In addition, insects and diseases that find thatch a particularly suitable living environment will be eliminated. This can be done by using a good rake or de-thatching bar on your lawn mower.

Aerate to reduce lawn compaction. Several terms used for this are “hole punching,” “coring” and “aerating.” Compacted soils restrict absorption of water and nutrients as well as air. To aerate soil, a hollow metal tube 1/4- to 3/4-inch in diameter is pushed into the soil by foot or machine to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, and sometimes deeper. Keep in mind, the soils should be moist when this is done.

Repair bare, dead or weedy sections of the lawn by re-seeding or replacing them with pieces of sod. Always replace with the same variety of grass as the established lawn. Remember to keep the new patches well watered for several weeks.

For more information and/or to purchase Successful Lawn Management Cooperative Extension Bulletin No. 155, which costs $5, call the Kent County extension office at 857-6426 or 730-4000.
 

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